#Rebuild porsche 911 engine manuals

Those Biral cylinders were not prone to pulling studs in the case, so you probably dont need to time zert the case, but its also not a waste of money to do so.

If youre staying with 2.2 Biral cylinders then I would stay with either the stock studs or Raceware replacement. The turbo valve covers are not a problem. Even if the bottom end is still good, it wont be that much longer and then youll be back in it again. With that amount of mileage I would do the entire engine. I've tried the miracle cleaners I found at car shows they don't work on magnesium. The fan and case is pretty badly stained from the elements is there some way to clean it up so it looks better? A friend suggested a bead,walnut or soda media.

#Rebuild porsche 911 engine manuals

A leakdown test was done about 20,000 mile ago and even then compression was borderline.Should I just do the top end or go into the bottom end also? Like most older 911's there is quite a bit of oil dripping from the engine so its hard to tell if the oil is leaking from the case seam or some place else.Should I buy the turbo valve covers? Will the expansion rate between the two materials be a problem?What type of head studs are the best/most popular today? Same for valve guides and seals.I have access to Porsche shop manuals for the rebuild plus the usual aftermarket books.

The car blows smoke during start-up,acceleration and when I back off. I'm going to do a rebuild of my stock 2.2 engine with the mag case. Vehicle Information: Model: 911 Year: 1970 Body Type: Coupe Engine (type, size, modifications): 2.2 Total Mileage: 93,000